Travel Log: San Francisco Bay Area June 18-20

Getting to Los Angeles

This time the Metro 460 bus from Disneyland to Los Angeles was far more crowded, and I paid the freeway fare.  I believe the crowding was due to nicer weather.

There was an incident involving a skinny white man in a baseball cap who felt overcrowded and didn’t appreciate the recently boarded black woman telling him to move.  He stormed out, declaring: “Fuck this.”

At the station I had to pay to check my folding bike this time. Also there was less friendliness and warmth in the station. I lucked out on a few counts last week before heading to Salinas, apparently. 

On the Coast Starlight

This was the first time I got seated (on the Coast Starlight) next to someone not sharing my destination. They were only headed as far as Santa Barbara, a short jog by comparison.

This time I was dreading a lonelier and less friendly trip.

However, on a trip to the café to get hot water, a man welcomed me to his table when he saw me looking for places to sit. He was a big man and kind of reminded me of John Goodman.

We talked for the rest of the trip, and it flew by. He also enjoyed plenty of beer throughout the journey, whereas, I enjoyed plenty of coffee that I brought myself and sunflower seeds.

He was an oil rig worker.  He told me that one day he started going to a new place every week in order to stay vibrant.  Among all the things he shared, I learned that he was one of the people who’s worked in Antarctica, I was blown away. I told him that's like going to space! 

He told me that he likes to be spontaneous. I told him I'm a planner, I prefer to minimize difficulties.

 

He also regaled me with stories of having delicious barbecue in Santa Cruz at night with outdoor pits ablaze throughout town, or was it the beach? It captured my imagination despite the fact I'm a vegetarian.  He also shared similar dining stories regarding San Luis Obispo, where I was headed the following week. 

He was currently living in Idaho. I think he was bound to transfer in Portland. He spoke of having some hearty barbecue as a homecoming reward for a long journey, as he had visited family in Orange County.

We also spoke of the romance of steamboats and how sublime it could be riding the train to a place like New Orleans then boarding a steamboat, that would really be a double whammy. 

He invited people to sit with us from time to time.  A Polish girl joined us briefly.

He couldn’t get enough of the scenery.

At one point he asked me, "Do you see that?" And I looked and saw nothing at first, so I said no. Then the brilliant lights came into view, and then the magnificence of a huge stadium set against the backdrop of sunset amidst some wetlands (or so it seemed). It turned out to be Levi’s Stadium, I pointed out that this was where the last Super Bowl was played, which he seemed not to know. Then some young foreign men at another table near us informed us that a big deal soccer game was going on right then and there! 

We were getting close to Oakland so we parted ways and returned to our seats.

Oakland

It was a little unsettling arriving in Oakland after dark, even though it was a nicer, tourist-friendly area. I tried to make it to a local supermarket, but figured I’d better give up when I lost the directions.

Jack London Square turned out to be a cool place, more relaxing and classier than Fisherman’s Wharf.

I got some Ben ‘n Jerry’s since I missed the opportunity to dine on-board and had a bit of a wait before the next ferry was due. I still like Baskin Robbins better, partially because they're cheaper. 

I rode the ferry from Oakland to San Francisco. I enjoyed the Embarcadero stop. The Ferry Building is my favorite San Francisco landmark, but I had to get off at the Wharf.  

I then had to navigate the bike paths for the first time.  When I arrived at the basic area, I found that the steep street leading up to the property was nearly pitch black.

HI-Fort Mason, my lodging, was located in a National Park and it was quite big.  Yet, I enjoyed Monterey’s amenities more. 

I had some good banter with the desk attendant, who reminded me of the Culkins. In fact, when I hinted at this the chemistry started to die off. I then had another sleepless night.

Unfortunately, they had metal beds, which resulted in terrible squeaking, and the room was terribly hot. A Bay area room should easily be cool, if not cold!

Berkeley and Marin Headlands

I had to catch a transbay bus to get to Berkeley. It was going to be a challenge to get there in time for the desired sunrise shots.  Unfortunately, I missed the bus I really wanted due to being unable to locate the particular “island” the stop was located at.  The transbay bus terminal encompasses a huge central array of stops, which seems like an “island” in and of itself. Four adjoining city blocks surround the bus terminal.  A worker pointed me to the island in the middle of one of the streets and I caught the next bus. 

I arrived in Berkeley later than ideal but still with some decent sunrise.

I made it up to the Big C, a hilltop with iconic views, in good time.  I was surprised to find wild turkeys up there. 

Then came the most challenging part: the Botanical Garden, specifically, the Mather Redwood Grove. Getting there required the most physical exertion as it required a long ride mostly uphill.  I made it up there and had the grove almost entirely to myself.  This is a true hidden gem of the Bay Area and California. 

Next, I visited the top of Sather Tower and got some shots while testing my fears.  The bells blasted my ears early on.  There are no windows, just openings, making it a potentially breezy and unnerving place.

I had lunch at the UC Berkeley Crossroads Dining Hall.  Overall, it was good, but not as good as NYU or UCSB on better days. Actually, it was quite mediocre, but cheap.

Finally, I checked out the Berkeley Amoeba before heading to the BART.

The BART was tricky because it showed 20 dollars automatically, and I was not prepared to pay that.  Then I saw the options to add and subtract $1 and realized I needed to hit the subtraction option until I got the desired 4 dollars.  BART trains get more packed than LA Metro and they’re smaller, making the bike experience inferior to that of the more spacious LA Metro experience.  However, BART does offer great speed, but once again, it loses points for neglecting all of northwestern San Francisco.  It also loses points for not having day-passes or any other unlimited ride time-based options. 

Then I photographed a bit of the Embarcadero and the Oakland Bay Bridge before finally visiting the inside of the ferry building, which featured mostly specialty products, impeccably displayed, but also offered up some over-priced staples in a convenience store.

My memory card was full at this point and I had to return to the hostel to transfer my photos to my tablet and clear the card. 

After I was ready to go with a clear memory card, I rode out to Point Bonita despite not having enough time to arrive in time to cross the tunnel.  I took the “tunnel route,” which was pretty relaxing.

On the way back I took the Coastal route, which required me to hike much of it due to it being a one-way street, which I was traveling against, and being at an extremely difficult grade to conquer as I lacked the necessary stamina. Reaching the top was a grueling affair, but highly rewarding.

Unfortunately, the day was dwindling so I decided to drop Sausalito.  Heading back across the bay was a lonely, windy, and cold experience. Did I forget nerve-wracking? 

I showered and changed at the hostel.  I headed to Tadich Grill, one of the oldest seafood restaurants in the country and a staple of San Francisco dining, which apparently closed early that night. 

Instead, I found my way to a Safeway and bought a watermelon, a cold Frappuccino, and 100% apple juice.  It was one of the best watermelons I’ve had, but I'm damn good at selecting them. This one was from Mexico. 

I then tried to sleep.  I woke up at 2 or 3am and decided to hang out in the common space.  I ended up sleeping on the couch (I’m sure it was against the rules), which was free of squeaking beds.  It was like having my own room.

Last Day

I woke up and got some sunrise shots then gathered my stuff and partook in the free breakfast in the café.  The breakfast was pretty lame, but at least I got caffeinated.  I then had more of my leftover watermelon and apple juice then left the rest for remaining and future guests.  One older woman was happy to be able to have some of my watermelon and I bragged about my excellent watermelon selection skills.

I tried to make it to Union Square before going back to the train station but it was not to be.  I arrived on time, being lucky enough to have boarded the correct BART line, which I didn’t bother to verify until after we crossed the bay.

The train ride home lacked any spur of the moment companions and I was relieved to finally transfer to the Pacific Surfliner from LA to Anaheim and then get home. Apparently, there was a film shoot of some sort going on at a nearby platform in Union Station that night.

Travel Log: Monterey June 11-13, 2016

I took these notes during and shortly after my trip.

COAST STARLIGHT

A middle-aged man on the Metro 460 bus (from Anaheim to Los Angeles) was friendly.  He asked me about the quality of my headphones.  I told them that they were very good for the price.  He also asked me about Santa Monica, Malibu, the recent extension of the Expo line, and other things. In downtown LA, he offered me a free chocolate mint cookie, and I reluctantly accepted after he persisted several times. 

I discovered the Amtrak Lounge and a special checked baggage zone.  Union Station just gets bigger and bigger.  The wife of a couple bound for Eugene, Oregon asked me if I was riding the Coast Starlight.  She remarked that I’d be at my destination the same day, not so for them. 

After checking my folding bicycle, I tried the green tea Frappuccino.  An Amtrak employee (maybe a conductor) was having a spirited conversation with a woman in the line.  She asked about where he lived among other things, this was a fun conversation to overhear.

I was seated next to another bound for Salinas, an older woman who was a true, enthusiastic veteran passenger of Amtrak.  She told me of how she once rode the entire route from LA to Seattle (or the other way around, I forget) with a sleeper car just for the experience.  She also rode the Empire Builder train (Chicago to Seattle), a very beautiful route that is on my to-ride list.   

My first impression of the whole experience was that it was very friendly overall: like being part of the club.  She recommended that I visit the sightseeing car relatively early on.    

Coast Starlight aisle  while passing through tunnel.

Unfortunately, there were a couple of loud, somewhat irritating girls that made the sightseeing car a bit less pleasant for a period of time before I changed seats.  However, it was pretty chill once they had left.

Later on, when I decided to retreat to the café car there was another couple of loud girls.  They were giggling and were not as bad as the first.

The café car attendant asked me, by name, if I wanted free refills of my coffee.  He gave me two free refills by the end of my ride.  He showed interest in my photography. 

Coast Starlight aisle in full daylight.

I watched and listened to many people in the café car toward the end of the trip.  A few asked the attendant about his hours, and how his job worked.  He was also asked where he lived.  Many people needed his help with understanding how the dining car works.

The bus to Salinas had space for thee bikes (two being typical) upfront, with even more allowed on-board. 

The Hostel

I immediately made way to Trader Joe’s for a few groceries.  I bought mostly pizza ingredients. 

The street the hostel was on was unmarked at the intersection of the street I was taking, so I went many blocks uphill out of my way.   

When I finally arrived, the desk attendant quickly informed me that no bikes are allowed inside, and showed me to special bike lockers, although low grade. 

This hostel was also very eco-friendly; you get two shower tokens per night, at least I did.  Each token is good for three minutes.

The night desk man was a cool character.  He had a beanie cap, stringy ponytail, and listened to mellow acoustic guitar music including Pierre Bensusan.  I talked to him a few times at length. 

For instance, I asked him how he got his job there and I remarked about the surprising amount of senior citizens staying there.  He said that he got the job by playing his guitar in public, attracting the attention of the individual who hired him. 

I made a pizza for myself.  It was my first time using a pizza stone, it was really cool that they had one.  Perhaps the best thing about this hostel was the well-stocked kitchen, which had an abundance of gourmet and average quality goods. 

I actually did win some approval from some of the other guests who witnessed my pizza proficiency. 

I experienced restlessness late at night due to anticipation for the day ahead.

Asilomar

Reprinted from my original post.

I started at around 5:20am.  I revisited Pacific Grove’s coast.  Got some nice, moody, crack of dawn shots.  Asilomar was quite nice.  I bought a large coffee from the Asilomar State Conference Grounds workshop, which was on my itinerary.  Took cell phone pictures of the lobby and DSLR pictures outside.

The Asilomar grounds reminded me of the mountains.

Riding back to the hostel through Pacific Grove, I saw a deer on somebody’s lawn.

Big Sur

I rode the bus Down to Nepenthe restaurant, the final stop.  I noticed brake issues, but I made a crude adjustment and managed.

The Pacific Coast Highway had narrow to no separation from motorized traffic.  It was a once-in-a-lifetime ride, as I fear heights and riding long distances without wide bike lanes, sidewalks, or separate paths.  I was riding to McWay Cove, which was probably the highlight of the whole trip, certainly of the day.  Along the way, some Europeans asked me a question about the horizon that I unfortunately could not answer.  The ride was 8 miles each way.  The return ride climbed over 1000 feet in elevation.  A guy from one car yelled out at me, acknowledging that my Big Sur ride was special (whether the good kind or the bad).

Reprinted from my original post.

The ensuing bus ride was one of the most satisfying that I have ever experienced.  The Big Sur bus is a small bus, but it still has bike racks.  They even have a mechanized seat that apparently doubles for the handicapped and bikes.

On the bus ride from Nepenthe to Point Lobos a group of cyclists boarded.  One of them needed the special bike space.  He was asked about his biking by a couple of voluble guys behind me.  Overhearing them, I learned that he was also from Orange County, though he initially resorted to the default LA generalization, which he dislikes.  He spoke about rampant bike theft in Los Angeles, anti-theft, and his hardcore dedication to tough rides.

The guys behind me also talked about how nice the University of California system was, and also how nice the city of Santa Barbara was.  I was secretly pleased on both accounts.

Point Lobos

Unfortunately, the area was gloomy by the time I reached it.  However, there were highlights.  I came across another deer in front of me on the path toward the end of my hike, and we had a moment staring at each other.  I also enjoyed the Whalers Museum.

Reprinted from my original post.

Sandbar

This was an incredible dining experience all around.  I was pretty exhausted from a long day of hiking and cycling with very little food.  Plus, I had to wait, in chilly weather, about an hour for the bus back to Monterey as I had gotten bored of Point Lobos with an ample amount of time to spare.  I went to the Sandbar & Grill because the location was featured in Play Misty for Me.  My one complaint: the two women who sat right outside the window where I was seated for about 10-15 minutes. 

The Hostel 

I got into talking with the night desk attendant and discussed coffee, alcoholic beverages, DMAE, and his musical preferences.  He’s not afraid to disagree.

I had many ingredients in the refrigerator I wanted to use later that night and the next morning.  I put together an overnight experimental cinnamon dough and an experimental overnight pancake batter.

My cinnamon rolls were good, the pancakes less so.  However, I rode through town and went to the Nob Hill grocery store and bought a half-dozen eggs. 

I used up all my mushrooms, the rest of the fresh mozzarella balls, some of the whole grain mustard, and some of the leftover tomato sauce for an omelet.  This one I knocked out of the park, I felt it was honestly worthy of the Sandbar. 

The morning attendant was a robust Mexican character from Salinas.  He made and pushed pancakes while being super accommodating.  He liked the looks of my omelet. 

I checked out, and started the return trip after a brief stop in Mackerel Jack’s gift shop. 

This was the most diverse bunch of people that I have ever encountered at a hostel: there was a Scottish woman, Swedish girls, at least one German, a Spanish or Portuguese family. 

Coast Starlight Return

The Coast Starlight had a couple from Australia.  I overheard them talking with a California native in the sightseeing car. 

Unfortunately, I got no free coffee refills, nor was the atmosphere as friendly.  Overall, I found the return journey to be quite slow.  There were some rambunctious, annoying Asian kids near my seat as well.  I was very happy to get back to LA, but I still had to get to Anaheim. 

From LA to Anaheim

I intended to catch the Metro 460 bus to Anaheim, which would have gotten me home after midnight.  Moreover, I had to take the subway to get to the bus, and I was in a hurry to make the next one. 

At one of the subway stops, a young man expressed curiosity about my folding bike, and some doubts.  I told him that it is easier to ride up hills with the bike, as it is lighter and the smaller wheels require less energy per revolution (he was impressed at how much I had thought this through).  I also shared that I had rode it along Big Sur the previous day, which also impressed him.  Another young man waiting nearby nodded with a smirk, apparently approving of the conversation. 

I ended up missing the bus and stranding myself in LA, unless I got help, after riding the subway to and fro.  I went back to Union Station and called my parents to explain the situation and hope for a ride home.  They came to the rescue.  I decided that I would take the more expensive Amtrak train to Anaheim for the following trip. 

Home was overdue.